Droopy Ears Rabbitry
Breeder of Mini Lop Rabbits in Perth, Western Australia
We have decided to include this information on our website for anyone who wishes to do some research before they bring their new rabbit home.
Our mini lops are friendly as they have been handled from birth.
It is quite a stressful time for a kit when they move to a new home, so try not to handle the new arrival too much for the first 48 hours.
Keep a close watch to make sure your new bunny is eating and drinking and settling in okay.
Many of the questions we are asked about our rabbits seem to be almost universal.
Therefore, we've added some of the more common questions and the answers we have to offer.
Q: WHY SHOULD YOU BUY FROM A REPUTABLE BREEDER?
A: It is better getting a rabbit from a reputable breeder. You will have some assurances about your
pet.
You will know that the breeder produces rabbits that meet the standard of perfection for their breed and get some indication as to the health of the rabbit.
You do not want the result of crossbreeding, as they will not have been selectively bred for the traits of a particular breed.
You should expect to pay more for a reputable breeder's rabbits. We do not support any backyard breeding or crossbreeding.
You can also rest assured that the health of your rabbit is guaranteed. All rabbits leaving our rabbitry will be in excellent health.
Q: WHERE DOES THE MINI LOP BREED COME FROM?
A: Adrian de Cock formed the Miniature Lop by breeding the largest of the lop breeds, the French Lop with a Netherland Dwarf.
It’s hard to imagine how this feat was achieved. Nonetheless, 6 babies were born in 1951 and this was how it started. From then on a sooty fawn English Lop was introduced to help ‘Lop’ the ears.
Years of hard work paid off to produce the smallest of the Lop breed.
Q: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DWARF LOP AND A MINI LOP?
A: Dwarf Lops and Mini Lops are very similar in appearance, size being the only real difference between the two.
Dwarf Lops are the larger of the two and may weigh as much as 2.5 kg. The smaller Mini Lop should have a maximum weight of 1.6 kg.
Both varieties have a dense and soft coat and drooping ears. Lops are born with upright ears which soften and droop as they age.
Q: WHAT IS THE MINI LOP'S TEMPERAMENT LIKE?
A: Mini lops were developed with the intention of creating a rabbit which was easy to handle and hardy enough to withstand cuddling from children.
Mini Lops are sociable, inquisitive, and intelligent animals which crave attention and love.
They can become part of the family and do all the things that dogs and cats do.
They will sleep on your bed, cuddle up in front of the fire, watch TV, kiss you, give you loving nose rubs and cuddles, beg for treats, come to greet you on your return from work. Sorry, no they can't cook, but may help with the washing!.
They will play tricks and games, interact with their family, and bond with other pets, and so much more.
To top it off, you don't need to take them to the park every day for a run, and they do not bark and upset the neighbours.
They prefer to laze around and sleep in their bed through the day, and are active at dusk and dawn. Ideal companions for busy, working owners. What better way to unwind after a busy day, than to fuss over your pet rabbit!
Is there any wonder rabbits are fast becoming the 3rd most popular pet behind dogs and cats?
Q: WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A NETHERLAND DWARF AND A MINI LOP?
A: The Netherland Dwarf rabbit is as cute as a button; it is the smallest breed of rabbits with a full grown weight of 900 grams.
They have short and compact bodies with very big round eyes, short ears of a maximum length of 5 centimeters.
They both love company and attention; the Mini Lop is the dog (unconditional love and just wants to please you).
However, there will always be exceptions! Temperament in either breed can vary immensely.
Q: DO RABBITS MAKE GOOD PETS?
A: Rabbits make wonderful pets. Each rabbit have a distinct personality, just as different as dogs, cats, or people are.
You can enjoy teaching them and playing games with them. Rabbits can be trained and are very quick to learn.
Q: HOW OLD DO KITTENS NEED TO BE BEFORE YOU CAN SEPARATE THEM FROM THEIR MOTHER?
A: Most mums wean their kits between 7 and 8 weeks of age.
We keep them for 3 days or so on their own to make sure they eat, drink and function well on their own. Then they are ready to go to their new families.
Q: WHAT IS THE BEST COMBINATION?
A: Two females combination
Two females get along very well, especially if they have been together from a young age (around 8 weeks).
These females will exhibit no aggression towards each other and will show very positive social behaviours such as nuzzling and grooming each other.
If not raised together, one rabbit may become more dominant than the other. This will require de-sexing of one or both.
A female (doe) needs to be spayed around 4 to 5 months of age. Occasional mounting will happen, but it is normal dominance testing and not a signs of sexual behaviour or aggression.
B: Two males combination
Two males will undoubtedly fight, unless both are neutered. Two neutered males make an excellent combination (if together from a young age).
A buck needs to be neutered around 4 months of age, as soon as the testicles have descended. Occasional mounting behaviour will still happen, but it is normal dominance testing and not a signs of sexual behaviour or aggression.
C: Male and female combination
The
male needs to be neutered and the female spayed as constant pregnancy
is not desirable. Even if both are sterilized they will still
occasionally mount each other.
A neutered male / female combination is the best scenario. They will have the closest bond.
Both need to be sterilized because if only the female is sterilized, the male will keep mounting the doe. This can lead to fighting and the buck pestering her.
Occasional mounting behaviour will continue between them to establish dominance.
Q: WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF NEUTERING A RABBIT?
A: Neutering will prevent unwanted pregnancies, as well as increasing life expectancy in females by up to 80%, due to a lower risk of uterine cancer.
Rabbits are very sociable and neutering will calm them, making them even more lovable.
The main reason to have your rabbit neutered is so you can keep more than one rabbit without rabbits fighting or causing a population explosion.
Additional advantages include less aggressive and territorial behaviour, easier litter-training for indoor / house rabbits. Sterilized rabbits are generally happier animals.
Q: WHY SHOULD I NEUTER A MALE RABBIT?
A: Male rabbits (bucks) make responsive pets.
Most are territorial and frequently spray urine, although not all of them. They will also have to live alone, which isn't fair to an animal that needs company.
Neutered males are much happier and more relaxed. They can enjoy life without constantly looking for a mate. A neutered male will also stop spraying urine even if the operation is performed later in life.
Sterilization
is a relatively minor operation, which can be performed as soon as the
testicles descend. However, most vets wait until the rabbit is 4 or 5
months old, when the operation is easier to perform and the anesthetic risk is reduced.
Q: WHY SHOULD I SPAY A FEMALE RABBIT?
A: Having female rabbits (does) spayed is even more important. Most females become territorial and aggressive from sexual maturity onwards (4-6 months) and can suffer repeated false pregnancies. Keeping two females together - even if they are sisters - can make things worse.
Spaying reduces and sometimes eliminates these behavioural problems.
Spayed females are likely to live longer then their unspayed sisters. Up to 80% of unspayed female rabbits develop uterine cancer by 5 years of age.
Females who are not spayed when they are young and healthy, may have to undergo the operation in later life if a pyometra (uterine infection) or cancer develops. However, it is then generally too late because the cancer has mostly spread by that time.
Spaying is a bigger operation than castration. It's usually performed when the rabbit is at least 4 or 5 months old.
Q: IS SPAYING / NEUTERING SAFE?
A: Surgery on any animal can have unexpected complications. But for most rabbits the benefits of spaying / neutering far outweigh the low risk.
Make sure you do go to a vet who knows and have experience with rabbits.
Q: IS A MALE OR FEMALE YOUR BEST PET?
A: Generally males make better pets. Females may have a personality change with maturity due to their need for nesting.
However, this is not always the case. A way to make sure you have a lovely female pet is to sterilize her at the age of 4 or 5 months.
Q: HOW WILL A RABBIT GET ALONG WITH MY OTHER PETS?
A: Do not assume that your rabbit will make instant friends with other pets in your house. Make sure any other pet is not allowed in your rabbit's hutch. Your rabbit needs to feel secure in their hutch without worry that it will be invaded.
If there are any signs of hostility, do not let the introduction go any further until it improves, which could take days.
Continue to allow your rabbit and other pets to see each other without having any direct contact.
When your pets seem comfortable in each others presence, it is time to expand the introduction. You should separate your pets as soon as there is any sign of danger to any one of your pets. Gradually increase the amount of time you let them spend together.
Once they get along, you can just sit back and enjoy watching their interactions.
In general, most dogs can be trained not to worry a rabbit, but certain breeds will find it almost impossible. If your dog breed was created to crawl into holes and drag out whatever animal lived inside, a rabbit is not the pet for you.
Likewise, most cats can be trained to leave rabbits alone, and in fact, adult rabbits usually chase cats away, causing the reverse problem!
Q: HOW DO I INTRODUCE MY TWO RABBITS TO EACH OTHER?
A: You will have no problem introducing two small rabbits to each other when both are new and the same age. Rabbits don't have to be siblings in order to live together peacefully.
Introducing a new rabbit to one or more that are already in the house and have established a territory, can be more complicated.
The easiest introduction will be between females and males. Even when a doe and buck do not immediately take to each other, there is rarely any significant trouble between them, but introducing members of the same sex can be an entirely different story.
I do not recommend allowing two intact (not sterilized) males to have any contact with each other, once matured. Two sterilized males will get along. Keep in mind that rabbits are very territorial.
A first introduction should take place in a neutral space that no rabbit considers his territory. A new pen in the yard may be a good option. Any interactions at first should be well supervised.
Do not interfere with the meeting unless there are true signs of aggression. Give them a chance to work things out on their own.
Try to break up a fight with a spray of water before jumping in yourself. You can also give the rabbits treats when they are together.
The idea is for the rabbits to associate positive experiences with being together.
For rabbits that want to fight each other, you will need to set aside time every day to supervise them in neutral territory.
As the rabbits learn to adapt to each other, or at the least ignore each other, you can give them more time together with no barriers between them.
Do not leave them together unsupervised until you are absolutely sure they will no longer fight. Some rabbits will get along in the day time in a play area and need to be put back in their own individual hutches at night.
Q: HOW DO I ADD A SECOND RABBIT AT A LATER DATE?
A: An adult male will usually welcome the company of a female, but not another male.
Adding a baby rabbit with a mature rabbit is easy to do when the adult has been neutered.
If not, the adult rabbit may attack and kill a young one or show mating behaviour.
Introduce a baby rabbit to a mature rabbit in a non-territorial environment, not in the mature rabbit's hutch. Make sure you are there to observe. Careful, supervised introductions normally work out well.
Q: WHERE DO I KEEP MY RABBIT?
A: Your rabbit needs a hutch with food and fresh water. Rabbits should also frequently be allowed out of their cage to play and exercise in a safe environment.
Some people prefer letting the bunny run around the house while keeping an eye on them.
Others will let them play outside, provided you have an enclosed play pen or the type of garden where the bunny can't escape underneath fences.
Some bunnies have the freedom of the back yard. Just make sure your rabbit can not escape.
If you prefer to have a safer option then you can take your rabbit for a walk with a harness. They are available at pet stores.
A good way of giving them some exercise is also to train them to do certain tricks. They love it and it is a wonderful way of bonding with your rabbit.
It does not matter what form of exercise your rabbit is getting, whether it is running free in the house, in the garden, playpen or walks or tricks, it is very important that they do get some time for exercise .
It is not just mentally healthy for them but also physically.
Q: HOW BIG SHOULD THE RABBIT HUTCH BE?
A: The minimum recommended size for a hutch is 120 cm in length, 60cm in width, and 50cm in height. An even larger area is needed for bunny to get daily exercise.
It is essential that your rabbit has the room to stretch in all directions. A rabbit hutch that’s too small can affect your rabbits health, causing spine problems, muscle wastage and obesity.
A relaxed rabbit will fully stretch out when resting. The rabbit's hutch should be wide enough to allow you rabbit to lie with its legs stretched out fully. This allows for plenty of room to also turn around in the hutch.
If selecting an enclosure made from metal it is important to consider heat and sunlight on hot days, as you do not want your Mini Lop to cook in a hot metal box.
Cage sizes also should be decided in conjunction with the amount of exercise time and space the rabbit has.
Features to look for in a house rabbit cage:
- Space and comfort for the rabbit
- Ease of cleaning and minimal potential for mess escaping
- Durability
If you buy a rabbit and you just leave it in a cage, you are missing out on the joys of owning a rabbit.
Rabbits are not meant to be left in their cage all day. They need human contact, love, attention and exercise.
A: Rabbits can withstand cold temperatures but not drafty or damp conditions.
If possible, position the hutch in a shed or garage during the colder months, so long as the garage is not being used by a car, as the fumes may kill them. During the summer months, cover the mesh door with a fly screen mesh.
If your rabbit sleeps outside and you feel concerned during winter time, cover half the hutch with an old blanket. They still need to get lots of fresh air so do not cover them up all the way. We do believe this is more for our own comfort and peace of mind, though!
Q: HOW OFTEN DO I NEED TO CUT MY RABBIT'S NAILS?
A: It is important to check your rabbit’s nails monthly and clip them if they have worn down enough, as illustrated in the photo.
Rabbits' nails are like cats' and dogs' nails. They contain blood vessels and nerves (the quick), so when clipping your rabbit’s nails it is important to identify where the blood vessels are. Cutting into the quick is painful and can cause bleeding.
We will show you how to cut your rabbit's nails on the day of pickup. You can also ask your local vet to cut your rabbit's nails.
This is an example of overgrown nails. It is painful for the rabbit to stand on its feet, and the long nails affect the interaction between the bones in the foot, causing pain and suffering.
Q: HOW DO I CUT MY RABBIT'S NAILS?
A: If you are confident to attempt cutting their nails, the following may help:
When we clip rabbits’ nails we usually sit down with them on our knee and
turn them gently on their back so their head is held in the crook of our elbow OR gently between
our elbow and side.
If the above position is too difficult for you then you can try the position in this photo. You will need to be two people to get the task done.
For dark claws, it is usually easier to see the quick by looking from underneath the claw as there is a change in shape and a slight change in colour between the live and dead bit of the nail. Another method to help show up the quick is to shine a torch through the claw from the front or the back.
Remember to leave a few millimeters above the quick so you are not cutting too close.
Q: WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO PICK UP MY RABBIT?
A: Many rabbit owners have difficulty when it comes to picking up their rabbit. Rabbits are often not very keen on being handled shortly after having been approached. They may wriggle when you try to pick them up immediately.
Your Rabbit's Point of View
Gradually build up their trust and confidence by talking quietly to them and gently stroking their head when they approach you. When they have settled in, you can pick them up gently but firmly.
How NOT to Pick Up your Rabbit
Rabbits should never be picked up by the ears or legs. Doing so could result in serious harm to your rabbit.
Lifting Your Rabbit
When lifting your rabbit you should use two hands, one supporting the chest and one supporting the bottom. If your rabbit is small enough you can position the hand supporting the chest with you thumb over their shoulder for a firmer grip.
Hold the rabbit with its head slightly higher than its bottom and with the bottom slightly tucked in.
This will help prevent the rabbit kicking out backwards or trying to do a forward somersault.
If held firmly the rabbit should feel secure and not wriggle. Never allow children to grab the rabbit, run with it or rough it up.
Q: HOW SHOULD I CARRY MY RABBIT?
A: To carry your rabbit you should hold it close to your body.
There are several ways to hold your rabbit and you should use the one that your bunny feels most comfortable with and you feel most secure holding it.
The first position pictured is most suitable for smaller bunnies.
Hold the rabbit facing you with all four feet against your chest.
Place one hand supporting the bottom, holding it against your body to stop it kicking out and the other hand across the rabbits shoulders.
More positions to try
Putting Your Rabbit Down Again
When putting your rabbit back into its hutch or onto the floor you need to be careful not to let it jump out of your arms.
Many rabbits will attempt to leap once they see their hutch. Hold the rabbit firmly until its feet are on the ground. Be careful as you let go as some rabbits kick out backwards when released.
It is important to handle your bunny every day, or as frequently as possible.
Q: CAN I BATH MY RABBIT? DO THEY LIKE BEING BATHED?
A: In general, pet rabbits do not need baths. They are very good at cleaning themselves.
However, on the rare occasion when it may become necessary to bath your rabbit, the goal is to bath them in a quick and kind manner so as to not stress them out. You may be able to hold them securely under lukewarm running water and spot clean the affected area. If a large area is affected by dirt, urine, feces or any other foreign matter, that can't be groomed out or rinsed off under a running tap, bunny will need a bath. Make sure bunny's head always stays above the water.
We found that most rabbits like being bathed in the summer months. Remember to use special rabbit shampoo available at pet shops. Human and dog shampoo DON'T have the correct pH level for a bunny's very sensitive and thin skin. This can lead to natural oils being stripped off, leaving your rabbit with a very irritated skin.
You may also find dry shampoo at a pet shop that you sprinkle on bunny and then brush through their coat. Take care to avoid their mouth, nose, eyes and ears. Do NOT use baby powder, as it contains ingredients that will irritate their delicate skin and can cause respiratory problems if they breath it in.
Q: DO MINI LOPS REQUIRE GROOMING?
A: Mini Lops don't need grooming. As they grow, they will gradually lose their baby fur and acquire an adult coat at around 5 months. It may only then be necessary to groom them with a wire brush to remove patches of fur when they molt.
A typical rabbit molt begins on the head, progresses down the neck and back and then moves towards the stomach.
Q: HOW CAN I WASH MY RABBIT'S HUTCH OR DISINFECT IT?
A: A good way of washing and disinfecting your rabbit hutch is washing it with diluted bleach. Use 1/5 bleach with 4/5 water.
Let it dry in the sun before returning bunny to it.
Q: WHAT VACCINATIONS DO MY RABBIT NEED?
A: Rabbits need a vaccination against Calicivirus. This is a rabbit disease which was introduced into Australia to control wild rabbit populations.
Calicivirus causes a rabbit's organs to bleed, which eventually leads to them bleeding to death.
It is highly contagious, therefore, spreads easily. There are often no symptoms to indicate that anything is wrong. Inevitably, this disease is fatal.
It is important to vaccinate your rabbit annually against Calicivirus, especially if this disease is a problem in your area.
The vaccination can be given from 12 weeks onwards.
Q: WHAT SIDE EFFECTS CAN MY RABBIT GET FROM BEING VACCINATED?
A: Some side effects to vaccination can be expected in a few rabbits.
These can include:
- Depression and loss of appetite for a day or so after vaccination
- Site reactions seen as swellings
- Which can sometimes lead to irritation
- With patches of hair loss about one week after injection.
Q: WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY BUNNY? HOW OFTEN SHOULD I FEED THEM? DO I TAKE IT'S FOOD AWAY AFTER EATING?
A: The do's and don't of feeding your rabbit are extensive. A good starting point is the RSPCA's guidelines at:
https://kb.rspca.org.au/knowledge-base/what-should-i-feed-my-rabbits/
Using the RSPCA's portion guidelines, you can leave hay, fruit, veg, and pellets in the hutch twice a day. Leftovers will indicate the next meal's portion sizes.
A: It is absolutely vital that your rabbit is sexed correctly, especially if he or she is to live with another rabbit.
Determining the sex of rabbits is not easy, and it is very common for people to make mistakes – even vets have been known to get it wrong!
As a general rule, by about 12 weeks of age the sex of the rabbit becomes much more obvious.
The female has only a leaf-like structure (the vulva) which when pressed gently will be.
The photo above shows an immature female.
The males will have, in place of the penis, a tube-like structure, which is apparent when you press gently on the genital area.
Q: HOW DO I BOND WITH MY RABBIT?
A: When introducing yourself to a new Mini Lop it is important to act calmly and quietly.
We feel the best process for bonding with your Mini lop is to sit quietly with them in an enclosed area, and wait for your rabbit to approach you.
Mini Lops, like all rabbits, are very curious by nature.
If you show your rabbit that you are not a threat and spend time with them, they will feel comfortable and approach you happily.
Food rewards can also help build interest and trust with your Mini Lop.
Q: SHOULD I FEEL GUILTY PUTTING MY RABBIT IN A HUTCH AND/OR CAGE?
A: Don’t feel guilty about using a hutch and/or cage. House rabbits regard their hutch and cage as a home, not a prison.
Wild rabbits spend hours underground in very confined warrens. Your rabbit won’t mind being based in a nice roomy hutch and/or cage, so long as they can come out for several hours every day.
You can build up their freedom gradually without sacrificing your home.
Even once your bunny is perfectly trained, hutches can still be useful.
- A hutch or cage provides a sanctuary for a rabbit if there are children or dogs around the house, either permanently or likely to visit.
- A familiar cage is a great asset if your house rabbit goes on holiday.
- Most people have to confine their rabbit from time to time, for example if decorating the house or entertaining.
Q: CAN MY RABBIT LIVE INDOORS ONLY?
A: If you are new to the idea of keeping a rabbit indoors, then the concept of house rabbits may seem strange. But rabbits adapt very easily to life indoors, using litter trays just like cats, and settling happily into family life.
House training rabbits is easy; most rabbits get the idea of using a litter tray straight away, although a few may take a bit of persuasion.
Baby rabbits, like puppies, can't be expected to achieve perfect control over their toilet habits straight away - although most will make a pretty good effort.
And do bear in mind that trying to keep an un-neutered rabbit indoors once it reaches puberty (4-6 months) is extremely difficult and sometimes impossible. Rabbits of both sexes have to be neutered to successfully live indoors.
Chewing is another matter; whereas it is natural for rabbits to toilet in one place, they are programmed to chew. You must, therefore, teach your rabbit to not chew forbidden objects and offer plenty of attractive alternatives.
I, Annelize, once read in a book about rabbits where the author advised owners who struggle with rabbits chewing on furniture to use cooking vinegar. She said you can dab a bit of vinegar on the object you do not want your rabbit to chew, then bunny will stay clear of it.
I thought it might be a good idea to use for litter tray training. If bunny uses both corners in its litter tray, then dab a bit of vinegar in the corner you do not want bunny to use.
Q: HOW DO I GET MY RABBIT BACK IN THEIR HUTCH OR CAGE AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN ROAMING FREE?
A: Fill their food bowl, rattle it a bit and put it in their hutch or cage. Then rattle the bribe tin and see if they will come back near the cage.
If they do, that is a great outcome! If they don't, you'll just have to herd them back in from further away. They have to go back into the hutch or cage under their own steam, so you need to (gently!) harass them, such that they go home to escape being pestered.
Then you reward them, which helps them learn that going home means they get a treat.
The easiest way is to gently herd them back to their hutch or cage, is to clap your hands and say 'go home' or 'bedtime'.
You can also make a point of always popping something tasty in their hutch or cage for when they go back in, such as a teaspoon of porridge oats.
Most rabbits will happily go in and out of their cage during their free running time, because to them it is their home, not a prison.
They might pop back in to go to use the litter tray, have a drink or a snack. That's wonderful behaviour!
You won't believe it until you see it but they soon learn to go whizzing back to their cages when you tell them to go home, ready for their treat.
Although if they get used to a certain amount of free time and they feel deprived if you try to put them back sooner, you might find bunny goes on strike, which is infuriating but actually very funny.
Q: WHAT KIND OF TOYS CAN I GIVE MY RABBIT?
A: Yes. You can give rabbits things to chew on. Toys can include balls with bells inside, pine cones, any small boxes from the kitchen and paper towel rolls, or empty toilet rolls or empty baking paper rolls or a piece of pine wood that you can buy at Bunnies in small stripes at a minimum price.
There are toys made specifically for bunnies and most of these are good too.
A note of caution: some types of wood can be poisonous for rabbits so try and use untreated pine. Rabbits love playing with boxes.
They enjoy it very much if you put a view boxes together.
Q: Will my rabbit be all alone during that day when I am at work?
A: Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they are active in the mornings and evenings, but spend most of the day asleep or relaxing.
Sad but true bunny will not miss you during the day.
"....Im so tired....wish I can catch a bunny nap..."
So if your bunny lives in a cage, it's a good idea to plan exercise and play time around the times your rabbit is most alert.
Most of us feel guilty if our bunny is alone during the day when we are at work. They are very sociable animals and sure do enjoy having a friend. I think it is in their best interest to get them a little friend.
Q: What do I need to buy before I bring my new rabbit home?
A: Your shopping list should contain the following (There is a more detailed list on the section of the website called "What I need to buy"
- Good quality hutch
- Large run or play pen
- Bedding material
- A good quality hay for eating, (oaten hay)
- Rabbit pellets
- Feeding bowl ceramic (not something that is too light, bunnies like to play with it and toss it in the air then all the food is out)
- Water bottle not smaller than 500 ml
Q: Why do rabbits eat their droppings?
A: This is not bad bunny behavior;
Because their diet of plants is hard to digest efficiently, and they have to make two passes at it to get everything out of the meal. They don't eat all their poop, only soft mushy poops called cecals.
Rabbits are unable to absorb the nutrition via the intestinal wall, but can still get it by eating their cecals.
A: Say to your bunny with a firm voice "No". You are dealing with a toddler so it will take a bit of time for bunny to listen at you and to learn.
A good way to motivate bunny is to give treats. bunny do something you do not agree with then put him immediately back in his hutch and do not give attention for a while.
Hopefully bunny learn soon out of its mistakes.
Interpreting Body Language and Behavior
Rabbits have a language of their own. Here are some tips on interpreting your bunny’s hops, kicks and grunts.
Chinning — Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them.
Standing on Hind Legs— May be checking something out. Also used for begging.
Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for treats.
Flat on the ground, legs spread out to the side or behind — Relaxation, bliss
Upside down, legs in the air — Your rabbit will only do this when in total bliss, and often after a big bout of binkying.
Territorial droppings — Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment.
Playing — Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar.
Thumping — Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their stuff. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way, and may thump in anger. Bunny can also be frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).
Binky — (Dancing and hopping madly): A sign of pure joy & happiness!
Thumps – thumps and turns back on you – you have caused great offense, annoyance.
Petting – Pushes head under your hand or under your chin if you are cuddling or open cage door – want to be petted.
Licks you – grooming behavior; a great favour for a rabbit to bestow; you can reciprocate by petting him. Be happy, your bunny is telling you he loves you.
Flat rabbit – Rabbits flatten themselves for there is something scary and if they are close to the ground then maybe they won’t be seen.
Please think carefully before deciding to adopt a rabbit as a pet as they do require regular care, love and attention.
Thank you to all the people who brought bunny's from me that send me photos of them in their new loving homes. I appreciate it very much.
I would not have been able to make this page so colorful without your photos.
Thank you.
Bye See you later....
